Produced by Bureau Betak, the SS24 Dior Paris show by Maria Grazia Chiuri took place, as usual, within a sleek white ‘black box’ in the gardens of the Jardin des Tuileries. This time, the white minimalistic façade contrasted with an entrance in hot pink. Beneath the Dior logo, a slogan read: ‘The game is not her’, referring to a piece by Italian visual artist Elena Bellantoni, whose work draws inspiration from sexist advertisements. Inside, the main element of the set was a video installation by Bellantoni with an analogue split-flap device covering all walls, calling to mind those present in 20th-century train stations. This nostalgic mechanical Solari board displayed female figures, including Bellantoni herself, rendered in a pop aesthetic, accompanied by the words: ‘I am not only a mother, wife, daughter. I am a woman,’ and ‘I don't belong to anyone else. I always make a phone call to myself.’ The runway itself was covered contrasting yellow and pink stripes, but the rest of the set – the ceiling, walls, and floors – were deep black, reflecting a significant portion of the Dior collection itself.